Showing posts with label ammo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ammo. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Anyone heard of this possible Glock safety issue?

A few weeks back I got this comment on my "Glocks and Safety" post:
BH1218 - 2 weeks ago

I almost agree with you but there have been reports from Glock that some model .40 can discharge when first chambering a round do to design issues of part of the extractor touching the primer. check it out.
Hmmm....

It would not be possible for the extractor on a Glock to touch the primer under almost any circumstances; and even if it did, its too broad and blunt to set a primer off.

I wonder if he meant the ejector? As in the ejector was bent too far over towards the center of the round and was hitting the primer and making a round blow up out of battery when someone was racking the slide to eject an unfired round?

Not sure how that could happen either, because there shouldn't be enough force from pulling the slide back to pop a primer no matter how hard you're pulling... and even if there was, the extractor should act as a pivot point and the round should just pivot on the ejector and fly out as normal.

In order for that to happen, the cartridge would have to be jammed between the slide and the extractor (which shouldn't happen given how large the ejection port is, but it's possible with certain bullet weights and profiles).

This would put the primer further over to the ejector side of the gun than it should be, such that it may conceivably be possible, that an ejector that was bent over towards the center of the gun as far as possible and still be functional (it CAN happen, I have actually seen that) might strike the primer, and the cartridge might jam between the slide hood and the ejector, and you might be racking with enough force to pop the primer...

Maybe...

At that angle, bent over like that, as thin as the ejector is, the alloy it is, as brittle as it gets like that... I'd think it would just bend over further, or break off. It'd have to be in a perfect position, with a soft primer etc...

Maybe...

I kinda doubt it.

UPDATE: The consensus around the gunblog world, is that what this guy is talking about, is a known issue, but not what he thinks it is.

If you eject a live round with force, while the objection port is obstructed, you are covering it with your hand etc... (for example, trying to catch the ejected round in your hand); the round can rebound off your hand, and end up in a position where it can be set off by the ejector.

Not only is this a known issue by anyone who spends much time in the competitive shooting world (where doing so is generally a procedural violation); but it's not an issue just for Glocks. Most rimfire and centerfire semi-auto pistols have this particular potential problem to some degree or another.

The way to solve the problem is either to not cover the ejection port, or to eject a live round slowly, or both (I generally recommend both; though some pistols will jam a case or live round up if you don't eject smartly).

So it has nothing to do with the pistol being a Glock, or a .40. Though, I'll grant this may happen easier with the Glock design, given it has a very small and pointy ejector tip that is slightly closer to the firing pin than in some other designs; that doesn't make this a design flaw or safety problem for Glocks.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

5 years later - the economics of handloading

I've been handloading and reloading since 1996 or so, but I took a break around late 2000 when I moved to Ireland, and didn't start back up again until 2005, and didn't get really back into it until 2006.

When I did, I wrote a number of posts about getting back into reloading, the costs of it, the gear required etc... And I've been writing fairly regularly on the subject ever since.

I've written a bunch of posts on the subject under my ammo and reloading categories:

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/search/label/ammo


http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/search/label/reloading

Also some posts specific to the costs, general economics, gear, and processes of reloading (theres more, these are just off the top of my head):

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/2005/04/idle-hands.html

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/2007/04/getting-into-reloading-on-cheap.html

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/2007/04/cost-benefit-analysis-of-progressive.html

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/2007/06/progressive-experiment.html

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/2007/06/totaling-up-costs-for-red-vs-blue.html

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/2011/05/1000-yard-conspiracy-part-6-loading-for.html

And the cost of commercial ammo:

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/2007/06/why-is-ammo-so-expensive.html

Over the past 5 years, my posts on reloading have proven to be among my most popular; and there isn't a week that goes by that I don't get reloading questions. My posts also get linked up a lot at other sites and forums.

It's those two factors that are prompting this post actually. My older posts on costs and gear are out of date at this point; and instead of just referring some of the basic questions to the older posts, I find myself having to research new numbers etc...

Plus I just don't like having out of date stuff as my last word on the subject.

I got a bunch of questions from a guy new to reloading a few weeks back, and then today somebody linked a couple of my posts up on another forum; so I decided I was going to revisit the basic questions on reloading. First the base economics, then the basic gear, and then the advanced gear.

At any rate, this was the question someone asked (from the grammar and vocabulary of his other posts I presume the poster was scandanavian of some kind):
"I am having trouble now locating expert articles on the issue, but I heard that some Americans allegedly save money by refilling ammo after shooting at the gun range. That makes me wonder, if ammo is made in vast quantities using optimally productive technology, how come an assembled cartridge ends up costing so much more than its constituent parts (except for the shell that gets reused) that it makes sense to do manual refill?"
There were a number of answers in the thread about target ammo, and about it being as much a hobby as a money saving venture...

And I agree in large part with the ideas presented.

Most of us are in this as a hobby, as well as to save money. I find handloading and reloading an enjoyable pursuit in and of itself.  I enjoy the experimentation and control over my ammo that handloading gives me.

But the money isn't anything to sneeze at, at least for most chamberings.

You can save money loading almost every chambering, except steel cased bulk import ammunition, like most 7.62x39, and some russian 5.56/.223 for example.

The margins are pretty small on bulk 9mm,  bulk grade 5.56/.223 and 7.62x54r as well. In the case of 9mm, it's just really cheap to get surplus foreign ammo and white box commercial, because it's the most common pistol ammo in the world (being the NATO standard). With .223 and 7.62x54r it's because surplus and bulk commercial ammo are quite cheap (comparatively speaking), and that the brass is quite expensive compared to the cheapest commercial ammo. Your best bet is to buy reloadable brass cased commercial, then shoot it and reuse the brass.

Yay, the brass is now "free".

The economics of reloading bulk grade 9mm aren't particularly great for example, saving only a few cents a round; however when you shoot 5000 rounds of it a year it does add up.

And that's only the FIRST time you shoot the brass.

Even with practice grade ammunition (as opposed to defensive, hunting, or match grade), it is possible to have pretty big per round/per box savings; even on the second most common centerfire chambering in the U.S, .45acp.

Why? because .45 has a lot of metal in it, and therefore a lot of overhead.

In a good year I might shoot 25,000 rounds of .45acp, in a bad year 10,000... and that's based on the time I have, the number of events I can go to, and the amount of spare cash I have that year. The more I shoot, the better I shoot (up to a point anyway... and of course, the less the worse).

Note: The last couple years have been very bad years; between the economy and my health issues, I've probably only shot around 2,500-5,000 rounds per year total of all chamberings; but I'm hoping to bounce back in the next couple years.

These days, a 50rd box of US made commercial practice ammo in .45 JHP costs around $30 (which is down from a $50 peak two years ago, when copper and lead shortages combined with Obamas election to drive ammo prices through the roof; but brass and bullets are down a similar amount so scaling applies).

Including the cost of fresh unfired brass, I can load that exact same ammo (including the same case and bullets from the same manufacturer) for about $19. Plus, the next 9 times I shoot it (actually for .45acp it's more like 20 times), the brass is free, so the it only costs me $11 each box.

If I want to use cheaper bullets I can do it for more like $14 a box (less expensive foreign commercial FMJ round nose runs about $20 a box). If I want to cast my own bullets using salvaged wheel weights, is more like $11 a box (no commercial vendor uses low cost cast bullets for .45acp).

The cost of the brass in all cases (no pun intended) is fixed, at about $8 per box or about $0.16 per case; and again, the next 9 times the brass is free, so it's more like $6 a box, and $3 a box.

For those not wanting to do the math by the way, that's a cost of around $0.60 per round of commercial JHP, about $0.38 a round for handloaded jhp, about $0.28 for handloaded plated round nose, and $0.22 for handloaded hand cast.

The non brass portion of cartridge cost runs from about $0.06 per for the hand cast with salvaged lead, up to about $0.22 per for the handloaded commercial JHP.

That could save me between $2500 and $9,500 a year assuming I shot the brass just once. If I reloaded each brass case 9 times, it's more like a savings of $6,500 to $13,500... and it can turn what would be a bad shooting year, into a good one.

The economics on reloading and handloading precision ammunition, or defensive or hunting ammunition are even better.

Every round of match grade 300 winchester magnum I handload rather than buy, saves me more than $1; and that's just the first time I use the brass. The next five times I use the brass (some chamberings are good for dozens of reloadings, some less than ten) I save more like $1.70. Given I can go through 500 rounds in a single shooting event weekend, that's a huge savings.

Over the course of five events per year (buying once batch of brass per year and reloading it that whole year... which is approximately what I do actually), and assuming I practice as much as I shoot in events... that's about an $8,000 a year savings.

Again, it turns a bad shooting year into a good one.

Also, I can make a higher quality piece of ammunition, specifically tailored to my individual rifle; fine tuned to the ten thousandth of an inch and 1/10th grain of powder (about 0.006 grams or 0.0002 ounces). Factory ammunition has production tolerances approximately five to ten times that; and even match grade ammunition tolerances are two to five times that.

With the best quality commercial match grade ammunition (which costs as much as $8 a shot depending on the chambering; but more like $3 for my .300wm), my 1000 yard competition rifles shoot to about .75moa at 600 yards (about a 4" group). With my hand loaded ammunition, it's about .5 moa (about a 3" group).

... Well... presuming the weather co-operates, and from a stable rest.

And by the way, I am not anywhere near "competitive" in events

The real serious competitors shoot two to five times as much as I do, and their group sizes are half mine... but with commercial ammo, their groups would be almost as bad as mine... and they'd all be broke (that's assuming you could even get commercial ammo for their guns. Many are in custom chamberings that can only be handloaded).

So really, it's a bit of everything.

It's fun, I shoot more, I'm more involved in the process, I have more control, I get better results, and I save money (that I use to shoot even more).

Wednesday, June 08, 2011

Getting in on the Fun - Chamberings I keep on hand

As are most of us, including Unc; I'm a total piker compared to Tam (who keeps 51 different chamberings in stock... or tries to) but I keep a fair number of different chamberings on hand:
Handgun:
  • 10mm
  • .454 casull
  • .45 colt
  • .45ACP
  • .357 Magnum 
  • .357 SIG
  • .40 S&W
  • .38 Special
  • 9x19mm
  • .380ACP
  • .22LR (obviously, both handgun and rifle)
Long gun:
  • .300 winmag
  • .30-’06  
  • .303 Brit
  • 7.62x54R
  • 7.62×51 NATO
  • 7.62×39
  • 5.56×45  
  • 12ga 
  • 20ga 
So that's 20. That's also simplified greatly from where I was a few years ago.

I've pretty much pared down rifles to .22 caliber and .30 caliber (I used to have several 6mm and 7mm chamberings, as well as .45-70), or pistol caliber carbines. Pistols I'm basically down to 9, 10, and 11 mm chamberings plus .22.

I primarily did this to simplify my ammo stocks, and especially to simplify my reloading. Most of my chamberings can share bullets and powders, at least where their weight ranges overlap.

.303 and both 7.62 russian chamberings are notable exceptions in my lineup, in that they are all .30 caliber chamberings, but they take oddball sized bullets. At the moment I don't reload for any of them, or for shotshell.

I do at least have dies for all my centerfire metallic chamberings (including the ones I don't reload for); but I don't have a shotshell loader.

Of course, the really sad part, is there are several chamberings there I no longer have guns for...

...at least for now.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

The 1000 yard conspiracy: Part 6 - Loading for Long Range

Or "How to drive yourself mad, while STILL not being nearly as anal/OCD as the benchrest loonies... and unfortunately not getting nearly the precision; but still better than factory ammo...."

So, this:


is the product of about 4 hours of labor the Tuesday evening before Boomershoot. That's one batch of the new loads I worked up for boomershoot this year; what I'll call "the outlier" batch (excuse the quality, it's from my phone).

Outlier, both because they are the lightest weight bullets I have loaded for the chambering; and because I'm using up the last of my Remington brass (and I won't be buying any more as we'll get into later).

That's 100 rounds of .300 winmag: 180gr Sierra Match King BTHP Match bullet seated to 3.520",  over 79gr reloder 25,  Remington brass with a CCI-250 primer.

Data says it should push 3150 from a 26" barrel, with a .475 g1 BC. It's one of the bullets that Brian Litz has collected data for, so using his more accurate data (and experimentally measured g7 bc) I get a 25/200 battlesight zero (same as my 210 Bergers), a 1300 yard supersonic range, with 316" drop at 1000 (just over 30moa) and 832ftlbs of energy. Drop at 700 runs 154" (18moa) with 1380lbs retention.

Obviously, energy at range isn't a problem, presuming I hit what I'm aiming at; but I'm not exactly happy with the drop or drift resistance of this loading. I chose it only because I can buy a commercially loaded version with similar performance.

The real long range loads, are the 208gr Hornadys, and the 210gr Bergers (which I'll talk about in a later post).
A note: I was able to confirm the performance of all the loads at Boomershoot. All shot well, and very close to the calculated charts from the JBM ballistic calculator. The charts got me to within 1/2 moa of target each time; even using the 210gr berger data for the 208gr Hornady (they seem to have identical performance). 
At any rate, if you're used to volume reloading, you're probably thinking "geez, 100 rounds in 4 hours is awfully slow". On the other hand if you were a benchrester you'd be saying "is he crazy? he'll never be precise enough going that fast".

Since I'm not looking for 1000 yard competition level ammo at the moment (these guys are insane. They shoot under 1/2moa 10 shot groups all day long at 1000 yards; with 5 shot groups often running under .25moa), but I do want to be able to hit what I'm aiming at no matter what range; I figured I'd split the difference.

So, what exactly does that mean?

Let's break down how I rolled these up.

Step one, choose and gather tools and materials:
Materials
  1. Brass
  2. Powder
  3. Bullets
  4. Primers
  5. Lube 
Tools
  1. Case mouth inside reamer and chamfer tool
  2. Case mouth outside deburring and chamfering tool
  3. Primer pocket and flash hole reamer and uniforming tool
  4. case trimmer tool
  5. Sizing die (full length or neck sizing)
  6. Seating die (preferably with a floating, self centering, seating spud)  
  7. Powder measure, trickler, and scale
  8. Funnel
  9. Press
  10. Calipers and gauges
If you've ever done any rifle reloading, you probably have most of those; except maybe the primer pocket and flash hole tool.

If you've only done pistol reloading, you may not have a case trimmer; and if you're running virgin brass you may not need it right away; but you will eventually.

If you are doing precision reloading (or any reloading really), it's very important to have a stable, draft free, kid free, and dog free zone, with good light, to do your work; and that you gather your tools and materials, and inspect them all together, to make sure everything is present and in working order.

Now, that list above may seem to basic and obvious, why am I even writing it down? Because when we're talking about precision reloading, things are a little different than high volume pistol, and I want to go through it all point by point.

And the first part of gathering your materials is to...

Choose your components:

Honestly, this section alone deserves it's own post, and I'm going to do that. I'll talk about selecting bullets, powder, brass, and primers in depth in a future post.

This post though is going to be too long as it is, so I just want to make some general statements and recommendations, and some guidelines and hints.

So, I'll start with primers... Frankly, I don't think they make that much difference. I won't say they make NO difference, but the bigger the charges, and the bigger the cases, the less difference they seem to make. The one thing you want to do though, is keep the same lot of loads, with the same lot of primers if you can... or at the very least, the same primer number (like the CCI 250).

I do recommend you choose small rifle benchrest for small charge, small case, nonmagnum chamberings... but frankly small rifle magnum may be a better choice if it's one of the wide powder column cases preferred by long range precision shooters (like 6mm BR).

Some agree with me, some don't; I personally think the magnum primers give you more consistent ignition than benchrest primers do in general, and especially with a fat powder column.

They do make large rifle match primers, and large rifle magnum match primers; but again, I don't think they really make a difference. I prefer CCI primers in general, and I've never seen any difference between Federals large rifle magnum match, and CCI 250 large rifle magnum primers.

Bullets... man... there is SO damn much choice here it's pretty hard to make any recommendations; even within a single chambering, never mind across the broad spectrum of chamberings

Here's my thumbail sketch level advice...

If you shoot long range, you generally shoot either custom or boutique bullets, or you shoot one of the four majors in precision bullets: Hornady, Sierra, Lapua or Berger (with Hornady being the most recent addition to serious consideration).  I really don't think you can go wrong with match grade bullets from any of them.

This isn't to say there aren't other good long range bullets from Woodleigh, Swift, Barnes, Speer etc... but most shooters choose the four I mention above if they aren't going with a boutique brand or custom bullets.

At one time, the long range shooting game was mostly shot with custom bullets; because bullets sufficient to the task were rarely available from the factory. Over the last 20 years this has become less and less the case; such that today, unless the shooter is shooting an oddball wildcat, or wants a bullet well out of the normal weight range for a caliber; there are most likely sufficient bullet choices in the weights and calibers they want, to shoot MUCH less expensive match grade production bullets.

The difference between the recommended brands?

Well, Hornady is the cheapest, but has the least stringent tolerances and quality control... That said, in this group, least stringent means very little. Hornady has a very broad product line, with a large number of weight choices in most calibers; though a somewhat limited selection of very high BC bullets designed for long range compared to the other manufacturers. Hornady also has among the best customer service in the business, and they are generally a pleasure to deal with.

Lapua is the most expensive by far (often more expensive than custom bullets in standard weights and calibers), and has among the best QC in the industry, but I think no better than Sierra... and honestly very slightly less than Berger (if there is any measurable difference, which there probably isn't.

Lapua also has a very broad product range of truly precision match grade bullets for long range shooting; with a large number of weights and calibers available. They don't have nearly the breadth of range that Sierra or Hornady have; but in almost every caliber they produce, they have at least one of the top long range bullet selections for that caliber.

But have I mentioned how expensive they are? Like... REALLY expensive (seriously, Lapua bullets are often not just a substantial percentage higher, but often several times the price, of other brands).

Sierra are the default choice for many long range shooters. They are also the dominant provider of match grade bullets for factory ammunition, and for high precision military ammunition. U.S. Military snipers, in general, shoot Sierra bullets. Sierra, like Hornady, has a very broad range of bullets in general, but a somewhat narrower range that are truly suited for precision long range shooting (primarily the heavier bullets in each caliber in the MatchKing family).

Berger... In my opinion they are both the best bullets anywhere (and one of the broadest product ranges in terms of precision long range shooting; which Berger is almost exclusively focused on), and also the best company to deal with (though Hornady also has among the best customer service in the business). Walt Berger and Brian Litz have personally helped me to develop my loads for long range shooting; and they are glad to help anyone who asks them. Also, they are substantially less expensive than Lapua, and sometimes even less expensive than Sierra.

Honestly, where they are making great products (not all of them make a great bullet at every weight in every caliber), I don't really think there is a material difference in accuracy and precision potential between match grade bullets from any of them; it's just a matter of who has the best bullet with the best construction and best ballistic coefficient in the caliber and weight you want.

Just in general, for long range, you want the longest, heaviest, highest bc bullets you can, with the construction most appropriate for the shooting type you're doing.

Brass.. frankly I want address it mostly in the next session where we talk about brass prep; but again I'll make some generally recommandations here and give you some tips.

In this section, what I will recommend, is that in general you choose virgin U.S. factory brass (Federal, Remington, Winchester); match grade brass from Hornady, Nosler, Norma, RWS, or Lapua; or boutique brass from a specialty supplier (often the only way to get a particular chambering).

In general I prefer Winchester for factory brass, and in my experience so do other long range shooters.  It seems most benchresters these days are biting the bullet, and buying the ungodly expensive, but very good, Lapua, Norma, or RWS brass.

Given how much I hate brass prep, and how relatively reasonable the cost is, I'm thinking of buying a couple hundred Hornady match grade cases, and seeing what I think of them.

I don't buy once fired or "remanufactured" brass for precision shooting, even for practice; simply because I don't know what chamber(s) they've been fired through.

Match grade brass can be a lot more expensive than general run factory brass. Hornadys match brass is generally around 50-100% more expensive than new factory brass, which isn't too bad; but Lapua can once again be several times the cost (four or five times the cost isn't unusual) of normal factory brass.

So, what are you paying for?

Consistency.

Match grade lots are going to be better matched in weight, and closer to spec measurements, with a lower rate and magnitude of deviation; and when the brass is processed you should have fewer rejects.

Step two: Brass Prep

Also known as "goddamn razzafracking !@#$%@$!#@ brass prep".

Let me just warn you right now, you're hands WILL get numb. My hands were still cramped from prepping that batch 8 hours later.

Also, you will get splinters and shavings of brass all over yourself, no matter how clean and neat you try to be. I recommend having a source of compressed air, and a tack cloth or loose weave shop towel handy at all times to clean such bits away frequently.

I'll say this right now, this is both the most tedious and time consuming process in precision reloading; it is also the most important process in precision reloading.

Good brass prep won't guarantee consistency, but bad brass prep will guarantee you won't have it.

So, what is good brass prep?

Well, the idea, is to make the brass as consistent as possible, while preparing it to accept primer, powder, and bullet.

This means we'll be focused on the case neck and shoulder, the case mouth, the primer pocket, and the flash hole (both inside and out).

Unfortunately, most brass as it comes from the factory, is terribly inconsistent. The necks may be significantly out of round, the shoulders may not be in the right place and may have small dents, even the base circle at the case head may be out of round; and almost certainly the neck won't be perfectly concentric to the shoulder, or the shoulder to the base circle.

The truly hardcore accuracy nuts, benchresters, the guys who shoot prairie dogs at a mile etc... deal with the first part of this inconsistency, by never firing virgin brass in anger.

For these shooters, the first firing of a case is always either as a sighter round (not shot for group, or on an animal) or practice round; or with a light load of powder and a filler material, in the chamber of the rifle they're going to be shooting through.

That first firing matches the case precisely to the rifle for maximum possible consistency (some even mark the orientation of the cartridge in the chamber so when they chamber the round next, it's EXACTLY the same).

This process is called fireforming, and in addition to its use in improving precision, is also used to convert parent brass into the shape of a similar wildcat chambering (for example, bumping the shoulder forward from a standard cartridge to form an Ackley Improved).

Personally, I am not nearly so anal, nor do I have the money to burn on powder at $16 a pound. I guess I won't be able to shoot 4" groups at 1000 yards, or kill prairie dogs BVR.

I'm not belittling the practice by the way; there is very definitely a measurable difference in velocity deviation, and in group size, between virgin brass and fireformed brass. It's just that, unless you're measuring your precision in small fractions of an MOA, that difference isn't likely to be worth it to you.

For the rest of us, I generally recommend brass prep start with a full length sizing, using match grade or competition dies; or in the extreme case, dies custom reamed to your rifles chamber.

I realize that, again, for some of the hardcore, a full length size is anathema. Unfortunately, because of the state of most factory brass, I really think you should start with the known good consistency of a full length resize.

For years, most benchrest shooters would never full length resize unless a case was difficult to feed or extract. With the wider availability of high precision and custom dies; many benchrest shooters have come around to this way of thinking as well.

Once you've fired your brass in your chamber ( unless you're shooting through an auto, or through multiple guns, where you should generally full length size every loading) you can switch to neck sizing until the brass grows too much and needs to be bumped back, or until extraction gets stickier than you want to deal with (remember, tight is OK in a boltie, it just means more consistency; but stuck is very bad, so don't push it). With fireforming and neck sizing, you'll generally maintain consistency better, and your brass will usually last longer.

With magnum chamberings in factory chambers (and with some factory .223, 5.56,  and .308 chambers), it may be necessary to full length resize every time; because factory chambers can be loose enough and inconsistent enough that combined with the pressures of a magnum (or NATO spec ammo in the case of .223 and .308), the brass can flow enough to make extraction and even feeding sticky after every shot (which will definitely reduce your brass life as well).
Oh and not specifically related to brass prep, but important to accuracy and precision; in the case of .223 and 5.56, make sure you're shooting .223 spec ammo through a .223 spec chamber and not 5.56 (and vice verse). The differences between the two are in the lede and throat angle, and that 5.56 has a substantially higher max pressure; all of which are critical to precision (as well as to safe loading and shooting).  
Also, brass that is stamped .223 may have different wall thickness, case web/head thickness, and internal volume, than brass that is marked 5.56, so you shouldn't mix them; both for safety, and for precision. Of course, in general in precision shooting, you want to try to keep ammo batches from the same LOT of brass, never mind just the same chambering headstamp etc... 
For general run of the mill shooting through a random 5.56 chambered AR, these things don't generally make much difference; but if you're shooting at longer ranges through a .223 or 5.56 rifle (and you can shoot with precision out to 600 yards with proper loading), you're shooting at the very edge of the chamberings envelope. 
Long range 5.56 loads are generally loaded to max pressure with 72, 75, or 77gr (or higher for single shot bolties) bullets, seated to max feed length. If you try to shoot those loads through a .223 chambered varmint gun (if the bolt will even close on the round), not only is the rifle going to be inaccurate, you may bulge the barrel, or at the least blow out or pierce primers, or blow a case head. 
Many benchresters now use custom made full length sizing dies that are made from the exact specs (or even made off of castings of) the chambers in each of their rifles, minus whatever bumpdown the shooter chooses in the shoulder and neck. They will still fireform the case first, so that it isn't undersized, but they then full length size with their custom dies to bump everything down to the exact dimension they wish; after which they may choose to neck size every firing, or they may full length size again. Practices vary with every shooter really.

At any rate, if you don't want to full length size, you'll need to at least neck size, before you can prep the case mouth (some chamfer and deburr their case mouths before neck sizing, which you can do if your case mouths are all very close to perfectly round; which you will only get on match grade brass) .

This makes the case mouth and neck perfectly round and concentric to the shoulder; something which is sadly rare in factory brass (and in the process will create most of your rejects, as you get necks which simply can't be made right, or which split when being sized because they were so far out of spec or so damaged); and the right size to accept a bullet, seated with appropriate tension (unlike pistol bullets, rifle bullets are not generally crimped after seating).

Some separate their neck expansion, and neck sizing steps, using two separate dies. They may also then turn the neck before final neck sizing. This may in fact be necessary with some custom or competition dies. Again, I don't bother.

As to the dies themselves... I didn't address them above in the "gathering tools and materials section" because frankly in the major precision shooting competitions, just about everyone uses Redding competition dies (with micrometer adjustments, and changeable neck sizing bushings), boutique dies, or custom dies reamed to their chamber specs. Either you're anal enough to do that, or you can choose whatever die maker you like, because they'll all be about the same precision otherwise.

Personally, I like Reddings competition dies, and Hornady dies ( I think they operate smoother than RCBS, Dillon, Lyman, or Lee; who all also make excellent dies).
A note: With some competition dies, or custom dies, you may need to do a light neck turning, and a light case mouth chamfer, before sizing; as the tolerance of the dies are so tight as to prevent a thick walled case out of the bag from feeding into the die. 
At this point, if you have the tools, you can check your cases to see if they are fully round and concentric (you need a cartridge runout gauge and measuring jig. About $100, and a concentricity measurement tool, about another $100); but I generally don't bother. Another point separating me from benchresters.

Next we trim for length. This is another area where factory brass isn't going to be consistent; because until it's been fireformed, it's almost certainly all going to be significantly under max length. This means unless you want to trim well below spec (which I don't recommend), you're going to have to live with slightly inconsistent lengths until after the first firing.


Some loaders trim before they size their brass. With benchrest dies and match grade brass this is possible... in fact it may even be necessary because of very tight neck dimensions in competition dies.  

With standard dies however, I find the neck expander button can sometimes cause the neck and shoulder to grow slightly (this is also a good reason to run your neck expander, your full length sizer, and your neck sizer as three separate operations); and of course, you may need to bump the shoulder back a bit which will cause the case to shrink a bit. If you only trim before sizing, you could end up under or oversized. 

If you trim after every loading, and are using standard dies, you will most likely not have a problem sizing, then trimming. 

Frankly, if it's a concern, or if you are running competition dies; I think you should run your sizing as three separate operations, and trim twice if necessary; both before and after sizing. 


This is my length trimmer:

An RCBS trim pro, with the power trimmer kit. Frankly, I don't like it. It's more cumbersome to use than it needs to be, because the power kit is a clunky design. It takes up a HUGE amount of reloading bench space, and is just an awkward design. Also, it's ridiculously overpowered (something not generally true of reloading gear; most is underpowered).

It is however the market leader, and a lot of people (including me) get great results with it, IF PROPERLY SET UP. If you DON"T properly set it up, you will get inconsistent case trimming on the order of a hundredth or more (which for precision shooting is very poor).

That said, I definitely like having a power trimmer. I tend to load in large quantities, and trimming a couple hundred pieces of brass by hand is a very unpleasant and tedious task.

Most trimmers can be easily adapted to run on a small motor and switch however; so if you're at all mechanically inclined, you can make your own power kit for most manual trimmers.

For that matter, for $80, Hornady has a motor in a casing with switch and power, with a threaded shaft that can accept reloading tools. You can either mount the rotating part of a hand trimmer in one end and use it like  a brass monkey; or you could just rig a coupling between the motor, and the shaft of a crank operated manual case trimmer (which is how both Lyman and RCBS make their power trimmers. They couple the motor to the shaft of the trimmer with a short section of heavy tubing, and a pair of hose clips).

I do have a manual trimmer; actually two: one a Lyman benchtop crank model, and the second a press mounted trimming die. It works by running the case through the press into the die, and then cranking until the cutter reaches a depth you set and adjusted with locking rings, making it impossible to over trim. It to could be adapted to power use, as both Lee and Dillon have done with their very similar press mounted (or stand mounted) power trimmers.

Were I buying again, I'd buy the Holland Brass monkey ($500 though), or the new all in one Hornady:



Which lists for $515, but is actually available for around $330 (about $70 cheaper than buying the RCBS trim pro with power kit, and trim mate case prep center).
Note: As I was writing this article, I received a delivery from my father. He bought me the Hornady case prep center as a birthday present. Thanks Dad, I love you. 
There are other high end power trimmers, Gracey, Giraud, the Wilson manual trimmer rigged with a power kit (Wilson doesn't sell this, but others sell kits to do it) etc... But all are MUCH more expensive ($300-$500 just for the trimmer alone), and in the case of the Gracey require extensive (and expensive) tooling changes to work on different chamberings, or for the Giraud, are simply for a single caliber (at $425 each). They are certainly more precise (in the .0002 variance range, about 5 times what the Hornady can deliver), but frankly, I think .001 is enough.

If I was a high volume, rich, benchrest shooter, I'd probably be buying the full set of Gracey machines (they make an individual machine for each brass prep step); or a full set of the Wilson machines with power kits (Wilson and Sinclar make individual machines or adapters for all the steps as well) in every chambering I shot; and just mounting them all in a row on a board. It'd be expensive (about $1000), but very, very precise. As it is, I'll take the two RCBS bits, the Brass Monkey, or the Hornady case prep center.


Even if the brass doesn't require trimming; I do at least check all brass for length before proceeding, using my calipers; or just by dropping it into the trimmer and running it anyway (even though it won't engage the cutters if it's too short, the cutter pilot will help burnish the inside of the neck).

I also like to have a quicky go/nogo gauge for each chambering, that I cut out of plastic or sheetmetal, which lets me very quickly check the length of a case against my chosen min and max lengths (I cut my minimum on one side and my maximum on the other).

The next step, is to chamfer the inside of the case mouth with a tapered reamer. They make ones specifically for use with boattailed bullets:


Pretty much everyone uses it, or the ones just like it from other manufacturers. You can run the brass by hand, or you can take the tool off the handle, and chuck it up in a power drill (not recommended as it's very easy to overdo it, but some of the small "household" type drills would work fine), a cordless screwdriver; or in the Hornady, or RCBS case prep centers (the brass monkey comes with its own tool to do the same thing):

Again, I have the RCBS, which I bought before the Hornady was available. I like it a lot. It's really sped up my process; but combined with the length trimmer above, it takes up a lot of room on the loading bench.

As with the trimmer, if I had to buy again, I'd buy the Hornady, or the brass monkey; because they are good, AND because they do it all in one relatively compact package (the Hornady much faster, and cheaper; the brass monkey slower and more precise).

If you are so inclined, you could also rig up your own case prep center pretty easily, using a motor (like the Hornady above), and rigging a belt drive or gear drive to a few screw shafts threaded to accept the hand reloading tools. I know several people who have done so; but frankly, with the relatively low cost of the all in one Hornady above, I just don't see bothering anymore.

These reamers taper the case mouth to ease seating of the bullet. You don't bell the case mouth on a rifle case, so without chamfering, you would need excessive force to seat the bullet, and you would shave the sides of the bullet. you don't need to chamfer too deeply, just enough to make the case mouth smooth and even.

Next you chamfer and deburr the outside of the brass, removing any burr or wire edge you created with the inside chamfer; using this tool:


Which again, you can use in the handle, or in a case prep center. In fact, both the Hornady and RCBS come with an outside chamfer and deburr tool already (they also come with an inside chamfer tool, but it's not for boattail rifle bullets. You really need to use the one designed for vld bullets or you'll get shaving).

Finally you hit the inside of the mouth with the VLD chamfer tool one more time, just for a lick, in case you rolled the edge of the case mouth over with the outside chamfer tool.

Now that we've dealt with the sizing and the neck, we move on to the primer pocket.

Along with the neck, the primer pocket can really show you just how inconsistent factory brass can be.

The reason I won't ever buy Remington .300wm brass again, is because in addition to somewhat irregular necks (and a LOT of neck denting and crushing, and small dents in the shoulders in the lots I've purchased, so much so that something like 3 or 4 per 100 were unusable); in the batches I've bought in the last two years, the primer pockets are slightly looser than other brands, very uneven, slightly over deep, and have very rough flashholes from the factory.

The way brass is made, the primer pocket and flashhole are formed with a swage press, and a punch press. Slight inconsistencies in brass thickness, and hardness occur from lot to lot and case to case. Over time, tooling wears, and dimensions change very slightly.

These factors all combine to produce slight variations in primer pocket depth, flatness, the exact size and shape of the flash hole; and often it produces a  fairly substantial and uneven burr of brass sticking into the case body around the flash hole.

For mass produced, or high volume ammo, this isn't worth worrying about; but for match grade, long range shooting, this inconsistency in how the primer interacts with the powder charge, can cause slight inconsistencies in ignition, which causes slight variations in velocity.

To make the primer pockets uniform, there is a tool for each primer pocket size, set to the proper depth, which will flatten the pocket and remove any slightly out of round bits, or surface burrs, from the pocket:


As with the other tools, you can use this with the handle, or on a powered mandrel (I use mine in my case prep center).

The Remington brass from the last couple of lots I've tried had primer pockets that were fairly loose, such that the uniforming tool had no drag at all on the sides (though it didn't exactly rattle around the pocket), and the primer pockets were so deep that the tool made no cut on the base at all; leaving a slightly domed pocket, not a flat one.

Am I worried about the ammo being unreliable or inaccurate because of it? no not really, the pocket is just a little bit deeper, and shouldn't be a problem for the firing pin; but I don't like that it was so much out of spec that the cutter didn't even make a mark.

In comparison, the Winchester primer pockets are considerably tighter, there was some drag on the cutter, the pockets were almost completely flat and even without being uniformed, and the cutter just skimmed enough brass to make it bright all the way around; showing that it was even and flat.

To clean up the flash hole itself, there is another tool:


This tool can be used to clean up, uniform, and chamfer the touch hole from both sides if you wish, and I usually do; at least for thick brass like in a magnum. It does no harm (unless you over do it), takes about 1 second extra, and may just help a tiny bit, so why not. Remember, you're not trying to enlarge the flash hole, you're just deburring it. All you want to see is a very thin and even ring of shine around the flash hole when you're done, showing that the hole is now deburred, even and round.

You can tell just how much crap was left over in your brass from the punching of the flashhole, by how hard it is to feed the chamfering pilot into the hole from the inside; and how much brass shavings come out when you tap the case mouth on the bench. I've seen a lot of Remington brass that must've had a 1/16" ridge around the entire flashhole from how hard it was to pilot, and how much brass came out when it was done.

So, how much time does all this take?

Well, when I used to do it all by hand, it would take me about 2 minutes per case; from the bag to the loading block ready to be primed.

Today though, I timed doing ten of them, using my power trimmer, and case prep center; and total from bag to block averaged 25 seconds, including the full length sizing (of course that was on Winchester brass, which was much more consistent in general than Remington, had more consistent necks, and the primer pocket and flash hole cleanup went quickly).

Of course compared to the 5 seconds or so it would take to prep the brass for bulk loading (10 if you trimmed it), it's a lot more time... especially when you're doing 400.

Oh and of course for a lot of these operations, you only need do them once, or at least the second and subsequent times doing them are much easier and faster.

Now, compared to what real benchresters do, I'm being unconscionably lax.

The ammo I'm loading here is meant to achieve 1moa or slightly better at 600-1000 yards. For those who value precision measured in 10ths or 100ths of an MOA at 600 yards, there are several other procedures that are used to ensure consistency.

First, many high precision loaders will turn the outside of the neck using essentially a small lathe (sometimes just a bit fitted to a case trimmer, but most have separate trimmers and turners).

In theory, the neck sizing button has made the internal neck dimensions exactly round and even; but the outside may have variances in thickness, such that when the bullet is seated, tension on it will be slightly uneven in the chamber. Turning the outside of the neck ensure that the neck is of exactly uniform thickness, and thus exactly uniform pressure.

If you do turn your necks however, be aware that you will need to use custom or competition dies with a neck bushing, to ensure that your neck is sized consistently; as neck turning will make the neck slightly undersized for factory dies. Also, I do not recommend neck turning in factory chambers, as they are generally so loose that a turned neck may have its life significantly reduced, resulting in early neck splits.

It's a tiny fraction of a difference that many long range shooters outside of the benchrest community don't bother with... and in fact some people say it causes as many issues as it solves (and it definitely cuts reloads off the cases); so I personally don't bother.

That said, in competition dies, and competition chambers; the dimensions may be so tight, that neck turning is necessary to be able to run the case through the dies, or chamber it.

If you do want to turn your necks (or need to), 6mmBR.com is a good resource to start finding tools and techniques; as are the accurateshooting forums, and the accuratereloading forums.

Then of course there's the runout and concentricity measurement I mentioned above; something almost every benchrester will do on both their cases and their bullets.

Then, after brass prep, benchrest loaders will sort the brass into batches by weight down to the nearest grain, half grain, or even 2/10th grain (the theory being that brass which weighs the same will have very close to the same interior volume, and wall thickness, and therefore be more consistent).

Unfortunately, before fireforming there isn't always a great relationship between the weight of the brass, and its internal volume (which yes, is a huge issue of consistency, and is one of the reasons fireformed cases are more precise and accurate) ESPECIALLY with belted magnum cases (the case heads can vary substantially in weight), so unless your brass is already very good and consistent, I don't think sorting by weight to less than a 2gr deviation on small cases, and a 5gr deviation on large cases (say 7mm magnum and larger, or the short action magnums) gets you much.

Oh and in case it wasn't obvious, that's within a single case lot from one manufacturer. It's pointless sorting cases from multiple manufacturers together, and only slightly less so from multiple case lots; because brass composition and case head thickness can vary significantly.

By significantly, I mean that one lot of .300 winmag brass from one manufacturer may average 215gr per case, another lot from the same manufacturer may average 225gr per case, and a third lot form a different manufacturer may average 265gr per case.

Yes, that much. That's also why load data isn't completely transferrable between different cases. The same powder charge you use in the 215gr case may have a completely different result in the 265gr case.

Let me be clear, in a discipline where we generally measure things in 10ths of a grain, 2gr seems like an awful lot... and on that scale it is.

BUT...

A grain is one 7000th of a pound. There are 437.5 grains in an ounce. So a 1/10th grain difference is one 4375th of an ounce; and a half grain is one 985th of an ounce.

Frankly, I don't think you need to worry about variations of less than about a hundredth of an ounce on larger cases,  thus my 5 grain gating.

I still sort by weight (I weigh every case before I prime it), I just dont sort into multiple tiny divisions.

I weigh the entire lot of brass I'll be loading in batches of 5 or 10 to the nearest 10th grain (depending on case size that's the most my larger digital scale can take at once), add up all the weights and calculate the arithmetic mean. Then I segregate out anything more than 5gr over or under the mean (for larger cases. For smaller I use 2gr), and sort the remainder into two batches.

If there are enough to bother with in a single batch, the overs and unders get sorted again into 5gr lots.

The cases that were more than 5gr over or under the second cut; get used for practice ammo, made into dummies, made into bench tools or paperweights, or they get thrown away. But frankly, with good brass I rarely see many discards. In the last batch of 400 cases I ran, I didn't have any that were rejected for extreme weight variation.

To be honest with you, I've never seen a difference between a sorted lots,  from a lot I didn't bother to sort (after discarding the gross outliers of course). I'm sure if I was measuring for 10ths of an moa I would, but I don't.

Of course, the game in benchrest shooting is to pile up lots of tiny improvements together to make things the most precise you possibly can; so they do everything possible.

And what about match grade brass? Do you still have to do all this with match brass?

Unfortunately, yes.

BUT...

What you get when you spend anywhere from half again as much to five times as much per case; is generally a lot less work, and a lot fewer rejects.

It should just, in general, be easier with match grade brass, and everything is going to be closer to consistent with you messing with the brass less.

It's not going to guarantee you more accurate and precise ammunition; but it should make it easier for you to make your ammo more accurate and precise.

Is it worth it...

I dunno. Sometimes yes, sometimes no.

Sometimes you don't have a choice because it's the only half decent brass at all. Sometimes the differences between the match brass and the factory brass is so small it doesn't seem worth it.

On the other hand, some match grade brass is so good that the necks are always concentric to the shoulder and base circle; you don't need to touch the primer pockets and flashholes; and sorting by weight is a waste of time because they're all already under .5gr variance.

You really just have to do your own testing, and make your own evaluation as to the value proposition.

Oh and if you want to see how benchresters do it, this article from 6mmBr.com gives a solid overview: http://www.6mmbr.com/jgcaseprep.html

Step three: Priming

This is the easiest, and quickest, part of the whole process. You can either prime on your loading press, or do as I prefer to do, use a hand priming tool.

The market leader is the Lee auto prime, and I actually have two of them; but I prefer the Hornady tool:


The Hornady is somewhat larger and easier to hold with more leverage and better feel in seating. Also, it has a larger and more useful primer tray; and it uses the same standard shell holders you use on your press, rather than shell holder inserts.

There's really nothing special to do here, vs. any other priming operation; just make sure you've got the primer seated fully and evenly, and you're good to go.

Step four: Charging

On to the SECOND most irritating and tedious bit of this process; measuring the powder charge, and placing that charge in the case.

Actually, when I was using a traditional manual balance this used to be the biggest pain in the ass part for me (and considering how much I HATE brass prep, that's saying something)... and it may still be for you... but I have my secret weapon:



The RCBS Chargemaster 1500 combo (the link is to Midway, because the RCBS site is down... again... as is so often the case...).

When I used a manual balance, in order to get charges relatively quick, and consistent to 1/10th grain or less, it used to take me over a minute each charge to throw underweight, weigh up, and trickle up to the charge using a trickler into the pan on the balance; plus the time it took me to set up the powder measure to throw the right weight in the first place.

Now, it takes me about 20 seconds, and the charges trickle themselves up to under 1/10th accuracy at the push of a button, with a beep to tell you when it's settled and ready to drop into the cases.

If you're going to load any kind of volume, get yourself one... or one of the similar models from PACT, Lyman, or Hornady.

At the very least, buy a good digital scale, like the Hornady L-N-L bench scale ($85 on the net) and use that:



The manual balances are certainly accurate, and reliable; but it takes forever to get them to settle down to get a precise measurement. Plus, the money you spend on a good balance (about $70-$140) is about the same you'll spend on a digital scale of equivalent quality.

Ten years ago, digital scales had a lot of issues, and reloaders didn't really trust them; but it's not the same today. I don't even use my manual balances anymore; I just recalibrate my digital with check weights before every session, and every hundred charges or so in every session.

If you're going to use a scale and separate powder measure, you then need said powder measure. I personally recommend the rotating barrel with piston in cylinder adjustment type used by Hornady, RCBS, and Redding. Also, all three offer micrometer type adjusters, that allow for very fine and repeatable adjustments.

Any of them will do you just fine, but the Redding benchrest model is the "gold standard" for benchrest shooters.

I personally have both a Hornady, and an RCBS; and the stands for both that let me raise the measures well above the bench (so I don't have to drop below the benchtop).



I personally dont care for the sliding barrel mechanism used in the Lee and Lyman measures; or the sliding charge bar mechanism used in the Dillon and other Lee measures. I believe they are less precise, less repeatable, and easier to jam up with difficult powders.

One thing to note: the standard powder measure inserts that come with the measure are usually sufficient for rifle benchrest chamberings, but often don't have sufficient volume for large magnums. Most manufacturers offer inserts which can measure larger charges precisely however.

Also, if you are going to use a manual throw and scale, you'll need a powder trickler. They're all pretty much the same, so I don't think the brand or model matters; so long as you get one that's heavy, anti-static (no plastic) and relatively smooth inside. I personally have a Redding that's older than I am.

No matter what type of scale and powder measure you use,  I STRONGLY recommend you use the Lyman powder pal:



I throw directly into the dish, which is partially shielded with a funnel already built in; which helps keep the charge from spilling, and then allows me to go direct to each cartridge quickly, without a separate funnel. It saves a second or too each charge, and over the course of a few hundred charges it makes a real difference.


Step five: Bullets and seating

Now we get to actually finishing functional ammo; and another controversial and complicated topic.

Any benchrester or other hardcore accuracy nut will measure, weigh, and sort their bullets to what I consider an extreme degree.

For example, a benchrester will check each bullet for runout at at least three points; with a maximum runout of .002" before rejecting a bullet.

I don't even bother to check bullet runout; I just buy good match grade bullets, and trust that anything that meets my weight and length gates will be sufficiently concentric.

I check three things (numbers are for large magnums. appx .5% max weight variance and 2% max length variance to scale for smaller rounds):

  1. Inspect for obvious defects or malformations
  2. Measure length with a maximum variance of .04" from nominal
  3. Sort by weight into .5gr lots,  with a maximum variance of 1gr from nominal

Anything beyond the maximum variance I discard; unless there are enough on either side to sort into their own lot; frankly with good match grade bullets, that's pretty rare.

Again, by benchrest standards I am unconscionably lax (most sort by .1gr or .2gr); but I'm not trying to shoot under 1/2moa at 1000 yards, nor am I concerned with .1moa variations at 600 yards; I want to shoot at 1moa or under at 1000, and 3/4moa or under at 800.

Once your bullets are sorted, it's seating time.... almost

You have to figure your seating depth first.

Personally, I find the best way to do that, is to load a dummy with a slightly loose neck (run the expander but not the neck sizer, then chamfer, and that should do it) out to the maximum length I can either fit in the gun, or the maximum I can get the bullet to hold firmly enough it wont pull out of the case with finger pressure. Then I measure the round to the nearest thousandth, and note that down.

When I'm ready,  I very carefully feed the cartridge into the chamber being careful not to knock the nose, and I close the bolt on the round.

If there is any kind of accuracy potential out of the rifle at all with the bullet you're loading; this should push the bullet into the lands of the rifling.

Unfortunately, on a lot of factory guns, they cut the throat badly, with a very long lede so it will not build up excess pressure no matter what some idiot loads in the gun; and you won't be able to contact the lands of the rifling with the longest cartridge you can load.
That is generally a strong indicator that you should rebarrel; but not always. Frankly, I've had plenty of 1moa guns that had ledes to long to seat to the lands with a max feedlength cartridge; so you should test it and see if you're happy before you decide to rebarrel.  Also, you can try using a bullet with a shorter or fatter ogive, or a longer bearing surface; and you might be able to get contact.
Extract the cartridge, and make note of the orientation the cartridge was in; and inspect the bullet to make sure it has slight marks from the rifling pushing on it. If there isn't even the slightest mark, again that's probably an indicator you want to rebarrel. Measure the OAL and note it down.

Now, you're going to rechamber the cartridge 4 times, rotating it 1/4 turn each time, and making sure the nose doesn't touch anything, until the rifling hits the ogive, each time. Then extract and measure.

If it sticks or pushes deeper in any measurable way (more than .002 variation, if that's within the accuracy of your measuring instrument... if you want better accuracy get an oal-to-ogive measuring device. They usually have a .001 repeatable accuracy), you may have a problem with either non concentric ammo,  a non-concentric bore, or a roughly reamed chamber and throat. First check your ammo, then run the test again. If it does it again, after verifying your ammo is concentric to .002, you've got a non concentric bore or chamber; and it's time to re-ream or re-barrel.

Now, to the controversy...

Every chambering is different, every bullet shape is different, and every barrel is different; so there is no one bullet seating depth that will give the best accuracy with safe pressures.

This is where the holy wars start.

Some say that bullets should be seated as far as two hundreths out from the lands of the rifling; some think as little as two thousandths; and a third group thinks there should be no measurable jump at all, so long as the bullet isn't actually jammed into the lands (there are those who maintain jammed hard in the lands is best, but it's not safe. It causes pressure spiking).

The answer is?

There is no answer. Different bullets, in different chamberings, at different pressures all respond to jump differently, with groups often growing and shrinking at each couple thousandths of variation, and not in a linear fashion. Highly precise, repeated, instrumented testing by ballisticians has come up with the exact same result.

If you're lucky, somebody like Brian Litz has tested your bullet and chambering, and has a good idea where to start.

Brians advice to me for the  Berger  .300 210gr VLD target bullets, was to start at .002" off and test in .002" increments out to .01" off; but that it was likely, with a good tight chamber and throat that I'd see the best results between .002" and .006" off.

Once you've got your final measurement, and have decided on your jump; it's time to set up your seating die.

Your seating setup is dependent on your press, your bullets, and your dies; so I can't give you explicit instruction. Just make sure you have good, accurate, and precise measuring tools, and that if they are calibratable, you do so.

Also, it's important to note that rifle seating dies, seat on the ogive of the bullet not the point of the bullet; and any measurements are most accurate when taken from a set point on the ogive, using a micrometer made to do so (several of the benchrest instrument makers sell them).

What I can say, is a micrometer seating die is a real help in getting it done properly, with precision.

Again, basically everyone who seats in a reloading press uses the Redding competition dies. Some long range shooters will get a custom insert machined that matches the ogive of their bullets precisely, for maximum repeatability.

Some use the inline "hand" seating dies from Wilson; which use an arbor press (a small shop press), rather than a reloading press. These dies seat together in two halves, rather than using a shellholder and a die holder; and are machined together. Because of this, they don't depend on the precision of the press, and have a higher theoretically achievable precision than using a die in a reloading press.

You want to have a maximum variance of +0 -.002" if you can get it (and if you work at it, and have the right dies, and a good press, you can), and at worst .01"; and you should definitely check every round you intend to use in precision shooting, after seating, so you can reseat as necessary.

If you have a problem seating to .002" precision, you should sort into .005" maximum batches. If you dont have a micrometer or calipers that can repeatably measure that, get one. They make them just for precision reloaders (and I'm not talking about the $20 chinese made RCBS that you use to load your .45acp).

Finally, if you're measuring runout at all; you should measure bullet to case runout to ensure the bullet isn't slightly tilted in the case. You're trying for .002 or less, with more than .004 being unacceptable.


Step six: Shoot! 

Actually, shoot, test, shoot, test, measure, test... then go back and adjust parameters and shoot and test some more. 

Loading for precision at long range is an iterative process, where you test every possible parameter you can, with every other possible parameter you can, until you come up with the best results for your individual rifle. 

I strongly recommend you find a shooting spot where you can set up a portable loading bench, and load at your testing site; that way you can test many variations in a single day. 

Your most valuable test tools will be your 100 yard zeroing targets, your spotting scope, and your chronograph. 

If you group spectacularly the first time out, Mazeltov. Write down everything you did, how you did it, and what the measurements were so you can repeat that. 

If not... time to get to work. 

Your first task, is to try to get your extreme velocity spread down below 1%, and your standard deviation below .5% (it's doable, but very difficult). This doesn't guarantee good groups, but it certainly makes your life easier. 

Next up, we load batches where everything is identical but the charge weight. 

First, work up to the maximum velocity load that gives you a reasonable standard deviation and extreme spread, while staying under safe pressure limitations. Next Load 10 batches, with rounds each batch, at .2gr increments per batch, and shoot two groups of five with each charge weight. 

The load that shoots the best groups wins; but if you see a trend of continually improving groups as you move down, keep loading more batches and moving down until improvement stops. 

When we're testing ammo we start at 100 yards because it's a lot easier to see the initial results, and reset over and over again. We're going to be doing a lot of that. 

We use a sighting in target, because the multiple quadrant targets, and sighting grid mean we can shoot groups anywhere on the target and get a decent aim point, and decent in scope group measurement for quick adjustment and assessment. 

Once we've found the right charge, we can try varying the seating depth by .002" and testing as described above in the section on seating.  Again, follow the trend lines until they peter out, but ONLY if the trend is consistent. As I said above, varying seating depth can have very inconsistent results. 

If you can't get the ES and SD to settle down, and to give you good groups, it's time to change powders, and see how that goes for you. 

If that doesn't work, you may need to change bullets; because your barrel may not like the bullet you've chosen. 

Again, try to get the combination of the smallest possible ES and SD, along with good groups, varying the items above. 

If you can't get the ES and SD to settle, maybe there's something wrong with the ammo you're making? Tighten up your weighing and measuring a bit. If you haven't been measuring runout, start doing so. Try switching lots of powder and lots of primers. Start turning your necks, and switch to competition dies. 

If you can get a load to settle down to a good  ES and SD but can't get the rifle to group as well as you want with two different powders and two different bullets, and you're checking precision at every step... are you sure you're  asking too much out of your rifle? is your stock set up right? Your trigger? Your rest? Your optics? Do you need to rebarrel?

The variables can be damn near endless. That's why people can (and do) spend YEARS working on just getting one perfect load for one perfect rifle. 

And of course, all this presumes you, the shooter, are doing your job. 

Ahhh... if not you can always use the excuse "the gun just dosen't like this load... I think I'll try...."


*** For those who were thinking "damn this is a long post", it's a bit under 9500 words (about 20 8.5x11 doublespaced typewritten pages; or about 30-40 pages in the large format paperbacks usually devoted to this kind of subject -depending on photos, illustrations, and layout-)... and it's actually still way too short, with nowhere near enough detail; and written for people who are already experienced reloaders. To do this right, and to assume only basic level reloading knowledge, would need a full book, maybe 80,000 words.

At this length, it's just about in my top ten for post length; with my top five all over 15,000 words. 


Saturday, April 30, 2011

A Somewhat lighter loadout

Well, because we got sick, we cut our boomershoot trip short, and we wont be arriving onsite 'til saturday afternoon; meaning we won't be doing any shooting (except maybe sighting in) until Sunday.

That being that case, we decided to cut back what we were bringing to boomershoot, to two rifles in the same chambering.

1. The "understudy":

  • Winchester Model 70 in .300wm
  • 26" 1:10 featherweight barrel
  • Timney trigger, set to 1.5lbs (totally crisp. No takeup, no creep)
  • Hogue pillar bed stock
  • CDI Precision AICS magazine system bottom metal
  • EGW 20moa pic rail
  • Millet 35mm high tac rings
  • Millet LRS-1 6-25x56 35mm scope
  • Horus ASLI
  • Harris bipod

2. The "development" gun

  • Thompson Center Encore, blue and wood, in .300wm
  • 26" 1:10 full heavy, stainless target barrel from Bulberry, with Bulberry medium length, medium width flat target forend, in fancy walnut
  • EGW 20moa pic rail
  • Weaver 30mm high tac rings
  • Burris BlackDiamond 8-32x50 target scope
  • Horus ASLI


We've also  got a number of different loads to play with, all in all about 400 rounds total:

  1. Federal commercial  180gr btsp, 2960fps, .549bc (g1)
  2. Winchester commercial 180gr accubond (btbp), 3000fps, .509bc (g1)
  3. Winchester commercial 180gr silvertip (btbp), 2950fps, .507bc (g1)
  4. Sierra handload 180gr Match King (bthp), 3150fps, .475bc (g1)
  5. Hornady handload 208gr hpbt match, 2850fps, .642bc (g1)
Were going to be shooting off a Caldwell lead sled plus, and a Boyts "tactical" rifle rest. I'm also bringing a set of caldwell bags, and an ancient Forster forend rest with a Caldwell bag on it and a rear bag for that.

I'm bringing a Newcon LRM 1500 laser rangefinder, a Celestron 100mm F-ED Regal spotting scope, and a pair of Celestron 20x50 binocs.

We're bringing our shooting platforms (two 4'x6' "stages" to set up a level spot for benches and tables), but not our heavy shooting benches; just a couple of portable benches and a folding table; plus some stools and folding chairs. Also our 8'x8' ez-up pavilion with side walls, and a propane heater.

I'm looking forward to seeing how we perform, given two completely new, just built, and unbroken in rifles, with two out of practice shooters behind them, shooting 5 different, completely untested loads.

At the very least, it should be fun.

Friday, January 14, 2011

The Thousand Yard Conspiracy - Part 4: It's a bird, it's a plane, it's SUPER Magnum

"I want to drive a Berger 210 at 3200 ft/sec --HTRN on "The Guncounter" forums"

For over two years now, I've been working on a long range shooting project, that I've called "The Thousand Yard Conspiracy". Unfortunately, the completion of this project has delayed long past our original date of April 2009... it being January 2011 as I write this. It's been over a year since I addressed the project on my blog at all, because life has... as it is wont to do... made it very clear, that it has other plans for us.

However, this year I am going to boomershoot no matter what, so I took this as an opportune time to restart the series
... and restart the project as a whole (though my main custom gun won't be ready in time for Boomershoot this year).

The point of "the thousand yard conspiracy" is to build a full custom, absolute class of the world, 1000 yard+ capable, field target, and long range tactical competition rifle, with glass, and all the ancillary gear for shooting accurately at that range.

As part of the project, I have written (and in some cases not yet publiched) posts about rifles, actions, stocks, hard parts, optics, shooting acessories, shooting benches, ballistics, chambering selection... any number of topics related to long range shooting. 

As I restart the series, I'm going to republish the first few articles that I already put up; then I'm going to move on, to finishing the remaining partially completed posts, and publishing those; until we have finally completed my custom rifle, acquired all the gear, and successfully shot at both boomershoot (now, most likely two different boomershoots), and at 1000 yards (since boomershoot only reaches out to 700.

In part one, and part two of this series, I planned out the basic design of the rifle, chose the action, and selected a chambering.

In part 3, we talked about how to build up a slightly less capable rifle, but one that would still reach out to 1000 yards; and do it for as little as 1/4 the cost of my high end custom.

We also talked quite a bit in all three parts, about selecting a chambering for long range shooting. Part two was entirely about choosing between the .300winmag, and the .300wsm; and in the first sidebar post, we talked about why one would choose .308 or .300wm over .30-06, a superficially similar cartridge.

I chose .300 Winchester magnum for my custom gun (for various reasons as I describe in those posts); but selected .308 Winchester for our economy gun in "going long for cheap"... basically entirely because it is cheaper than the winmag (and in fact had the winmag as the number two option).

Since then, a lot of folks have asked me why I didn't choose one of the even larger magnum chamberings out there, to get even better thousand yard performance... And from day one, people have asked me why I didn't choose the .300wsm (which can be slightly more accurate than the .300wm, while having nearly identical ballistics).

There are a lot of folks out there who love the big boomers. Heck, I'm even one of them; and if you are shooting beyond 1200 yards, there isn't much better... Frankly though, I just don't see the value there for 1000 yard and under shooting, in comparison to more traditional magnum choices.

"Super Magnums" ???

In the last few years, there has been a proliferation of new, or revived, magnum chamberings out there; some of which have been termed by shooters and/or their manufacturers/developers as "super magnums", or in the case of Remington, "Ultra Magnums".

Way to go on the hyperbole trumps there Remington.

These magnums have appeared at both ends of the caliber spectrum, with sub 6mm, and sub 7mm bullets being loaded into fat cases at very high pressures; and with 7mm and above bullets at very heavy weights, being loaded into LOOONG and fat cases.

A couple years back I was largely dismissive of the ultra/super/mega/whatever mags under 7mm... And I pretty much still am.

That said, the long and/or, fat cased 6.5s do have their uses... in long range benchrest competition for example.

Right now, the 6.5-284, and other similar 6mm and 6.5mm wildcats; shooting 140gr bullets with ballistic coefficients in the .630+ range (for G1. or .325+ for the more accurate G7 standard) at 2900+fps for standard chamberings, and as much as 3500fps for short "super" or "ultra" magnums and equivalent wildcats; are making world records at 600 and 1000 yards.

Unfortunately, no matter how ballistically efficient they are (and some of them are EXTREMELY efficient, with ballistic coefficients rivaling or exceeding their 7mm and above 210gr-300gr supermagnum brethren, at even higher velocities); the sub 7mm calibers generally just don't have the mass to retain useful amounts of energy, or to resist wind drift, too much beyond 1000 yards.

And while they're great on thin skinned small game and varmints (140gr bullets at 2900+fps will thoroughly redmist a 'yote or anything smaller at any range you can hit 'em); they just aren't great on large, or thick skinned game, because again, they don't have the mass.

Sometimes, in shooting as in hot rodding, there is no replacement for displacement.

So if you're an F class shooter, or you want a 600 yard 'yote laser... sure, go for it. Otherwise, I just don't think they're the right choice, for field and tactical style long range shooting.

Straddling the line between the super 6mm chamberings, and the traditional .300 and above magnums, is the .300wsm. As I said above, it has the potential for slightly more inherent accuracy and precision than the .300wm. This is because it has a low aspect ratio powder column, which burns more consistently; and because it can be fired from a short action rifle, which can be more rigid, and therefore also more consistent. It is also a non belted case, which makes it easier to reload.

I considered all that, and chose to go with the .300 winmag, because I wanted to use some very long, heavy, high bc bullets; and those bullets are a bit too long to reliably mag feed from a .300wsm in a short action, without seating deeper than I want to.

If I couldnt shoot the round using the bullets I wanted in a short action gun, that killed half the advantages for me right there; but left me with the disadvantage of it being much harder to find good factory ammo for if for some reason I can't handload (a foreign hunt, or lost baggage etc...).

I personally believe that any rifle I take out in the field should pass the wal-mart test. If, in an emergency, I can't find suitable ammunition for what I want to do with the gun, at a local superstore, or sporting goods store, in a gun friendly state; then I dont consider that rifle a field gun. 

As of today, .300wsm fails the Wal-Mart test. Although you will occasionally find .300wsm loads in non-specialty stores (here in north Idaho the chambering is very popular for elk, so our local wal-marts do carry some of the midweight hunting loads for it for example), you wont find 180, 190, or 210gr match grade loads for it; whereas you generally can with .300wm (in my region, Wal-mart, Bass-Pro, Cabelas, Sportsmans Warehouse, and Outdoor Outfitters all carry suitable long range loads for .300wm)

If you aren't going to shoot 190-210gr bullets however, the .300wsm does seem to have a small, but definite, advantage over the .300wm.

All that said, for the purposes of this discussion, you can generally take the .300wsm as the ballistic twin of the .300wm.

On the other extreme, the superultramegathumpenblitzenboomer magnums are intended to put a high mass bullet on target, at high velocity, with high retained energy, and excellent resistance to wind drift.

Basically, they're for shooting dangerous predators at 300 yards;  elk, bear, and ram, at more than 600 yards (and yes, there are people who take Antelope and the like at 1000 yards. I think they're nuts); or two legged varmints at 1000 yards and more... or for use in competitions that approximate those missions.

The tradeoff, is in cost, barrel life, muzzle blast, recoil, and scarcity of ammunition and components (and a fair bit of accuracy and precision at short range in comparison to the 6.5s, but that's a tradeoff for better accuracy and retained energy past 1000 yards).

However, as with their smaller brethren, I question the advantages MOST of these loadings offer over the more traditional choices of 7mm Remington magnum, and .300 Winchester magnum (or the .300wsm); which have been the standard choices of long range shooters, and large game hunters in North America for the last 40 years.

Not that the advantages don't exist of course; but that they aren't as large as many people seem to think they are... and that they really aren't worth the tradeoffs, for the 1000 yard and under tactical or field shooter.

Which brings me back to that quote from HTRN above:
"I want to drive a Berger 210 at 3200 ft/sec --HTRN"
Well, I want to do that to; I just don't think the advantage an extra 200-250fps gives you over a hot .300 winchester magnum, is worth the cost of doing so.

Let's look at some numbers, shall we?

Conveniently for the purposes of this thought experiment; there are five popular 1000 yard cartridges that can in general use the same basic bullets:
  1. the .308 Winchester (.308win)
  2. the .300 Winchester magnum (.300wm)
  3. the .300 Winchester short magnum (.300wsm, the ballistic twin of the .300wm)
  4. the .300 Remington Ultra Mag (.300 rum)
  5. the .300-338, which is also known as the .300 lapua magnum (.300 lapua)
Note: some might include a sixth, the .30-378, but it is substantially similar to the .300-338 as to be covered ballistically by the same entry.

All five use the same diameter of bullet; but with different cases, at different capacities and lengths; and of course at different pressures, with different powder burn profiles, creating different velocities and energy levels (Though, as the .300wsm is functionally ballistically identical to the .300wm, we'll take them as one entry to simplify the numbers a bit)

The 210gr Berger VLD (very low drag), is a popular bullet choice for all the magnum loadings we're going to evaluate; so it makes a useful comparison bullet.

Of course, it doesn't hurt that it's also one of the highest performing .308 caliber bullets (all the loadings above, regardless of name, use .308 caliber bullets) available.

I'm including the .308win here as a baseline, non-magnum chambering; and because the .308 is one of the most popular chambering choices in the world, for hunting, target shooting... really everything.

It is a 1000 yard cartridge... essentially because it IS so popular for everything; though most consider it marginal in the 800-1000 yard range, as it gives up a large performance differential to the higher pressure magnum loadings in the same caliber.

I should note, while a 210gr bullet is certainly shootable with a .308win, 210gr is generally considered the absolute maximum weight for a .308; and even then only in the Berger, which is slightly shorter than other 210gr bullets, but still has a higher BC (another reason to choose the Berger 210 as our comparison bullet).

Bullets that heavy are generally considered suboptimal for the size of powder charge the .308 can burn; and also are difficult to get to feed properly in a magazine fed .308 short action rifle. Most .308 loads top out at 180gr or below.

In general, the optimal weight range for the .308 is considered to be 155-180gr; so I'm going to include the optimal choice from that weight range here as well, along with the 210gr load.

We're also going to be doing some cost calculations (in fact I'm going to do them first), to show the real cost of shooting these various loads

Ok, so, down to calculations.

For purposes of this little thought experiment, I'm going to set the baseline barrel length as 28"; as for some of the loadings we will discuss, that is the minimum length for proper performance, and in no case will that length reduce performance.

The standard .308 length match barrel is 24", and most published data will be from that length. With proper powder selection, velocities from a 28" barrel will be approximately 100fps higher than from a 24" barrel.

The magnum chamberings data may be published at 24", 26", or 28" barrel lengths.

In the smaller cased magnums, you gain appx 100fps going from 24" to 26" and an additional 50fps going to 28". There is little improvement seen moving up from 28", and around 34" improvement zeros out completely.

In the larger magnums, with larger capacities using slower powders, you gain appx 100fps for each 2" increase (up to around 30", and then 50fps per inch up to around 34").

From a cost perspective, we're going to use a standard price for primers, bullets, cost per pound of powder, and the price of mounted match grade barrels; so that the only real variables are the cost for brass and powder, and the barrel life (This isn't totally realistic, but it's close enough that the simplification it provides is worth the slight reduction in accuracy. It's really the substantial cost differentials we're trying to see, not the pennies per hundred)

Setting a baseline on price

As with out ballistic baseline, our price baseline will be the .308 Winchester; and for the same reasons. It is about the most popular all around cartridge out there; and certainly one of the most commonly loaded to match grade standards.

At one point I would have said, "the .308 is CERTAINLY, the cartridge most commonly loaded to match grade standards", but at this point I'm not certain if that's true.

As of today, I'm not sure if there's more .308, or more .223/5.56 being loaded to match standards; since the .308 has been eaten away in the shorter range competitions by AR's, and in the long range benchrest ranks by the 6mms and the 6.5s.

At any rate, there is a very broad range of high quality components out there to choose from; with the very best match grade brass (Lapua, Norma, Nosler) running between $0.70 and $0.90 a case, and the only slightly lower quality Winchester brass (which many folks use, because it's so much cheaper, and when prepped properly produces results nearly as good) at around $0.30-$0.40 a case.

As I said above, we're going to standardize the cost of primers per thousand and powder per pound (which is realistic. The optimal powders and primers in question all run around the same price); and all loads are shooting the exact same bullet. We are also standardizing the cost of a barrel at $600 chambered and mounted (which is about the average of all the gunsmiths I've been dealing with on my 1000 yard rifle project).

The bullet and primer for each load will cost $0.45 together (when purchased in bulk lots). The powder will be Hodgdon (several possibilities, all similarly priced), at a cost of $22 per pound in bulk. The barrels will be $600 including mounting.

From a cost perspective the .308win is hands down, the winner; which is just another reason to use it as our baseline. Barrel life, even in a match rifle, frequently exceeds 10,000 rounds; and the most exacting competitors still expect at least a 5000 round life. Powder charges are low (in the 40-45gr range)... Match case life is typically 5 loads (though many will go to 10 or more), with  AT LEAST 5 more practice reloads.

All in all, it's a great value.

So to be conservative, that's:
  • $0.70 per case (lets presume match brass)
  • $0.45 for the primer and bullet
  • 45gr of powder (155 loads per pound less wastage) at $22 a pound for $0.14 of powder
  • 5,000 rounds per $600 barrel (including chambering and mounting)
To push 210gr at 2550fps from a 28" barrel.

If we presume a 10,000 round match life for a rifle, the lifetime shooting costs look something like this:
.308win, 210gr Berger VLD, 10,000 round match life
  • 2000 cases, $1,400
  • 10,000 bullets and primers, $4,500
  • 65 pounds of powder, $1,430.
  • 2 barrel, $1200.
Total .308win = $8,530
Per round .308win = $0.85
$0.85 a round total cost, for serious match grade shooting... that's a great deal all around.

A note on the costs of long range shooting

You should note that over $8500 baseline cost of consumables (and the large magnums are going to be WAY more).

A lot of folks complain about the cost of a good match grade rifle and glass, which can start around $1200 each respectively; and go up into the $5000 each range respectively.

That's between $2400 and say $10,000 dollars (including your first $600 barrel).

$2400, or hell even $10k is NOTHING compared to the cost of the ammo you are going to be shooting through the rifle over its life, plus the cost of travel, training, ancillary gear like spotting scopes, rangefinders, and rifle rests...

Spend your money on GOOD equipment, so you won't need to buy it again when it breaks, or buy better when you outgrow it. Don't WASTE your money buying the most expensive thing, but buy for VALUE, not price.

You are going to get more value in long range shooting, buying the right combination of rifle and glass; than trying to shoot for the lowest possible price.

Admittedly, an extra $2000 or $4000 or however much to spend on ammo would be nice, but not at the cost of buying a rifle, or a scope, that won't get the job done for you, no matter how much you practice.

Setting a baseline on ballistics

Ok, back to our numbers.

The "standard" match .308 loads for long range shooting, are the Sierra 155gr palma at 2850fps (G7BC .229, G1BC .449), the sierra 168gr match king at 2800fps (G7BC .218 G1BC .427.), and the Sierra 180gr match king at 2700fps (G7-BC .247 G1BC .482).

Remember, all numbers are from a 28" barrel, and are in general, approximately 100-150fps higher than would be seen from a 24" barrel. All loads and velocities are from published sources (either hardcopy or online), producing under 1moa claimed accuracy.

All of these loads listed above (or a reasonable approximation thereof) are available from a relatively major manufacturers as factory loaded ammo... Though few serious competitors would use factory ammo; if only because they want control over every possible factor... but also because some loads can be driven to considerably higher performance without accuracy loss (the 168gr match king is capable of well over 2800fps from a 28" barrel without any pressure problems or loss of accuracy for example. The 155.5gr Palma bullet can be pushed to 2900 out of a 28" barrel without pressure or accuracy issues)

Also popular are their Berger equivalents; but Berger bullets are generally only available as factory ammunition from some small, specialty manufacturers. They are more the province of handloaders.

Berger bullets are expensive compared to many major factory bullets (though not really more than their biggest competitors, Sierra), but along with Lapua (who are even MORE expensive), are generally considered to be among the best possible choices for long range shooting.

The Berger loads for comparison would be the 155.5gr "fullbore" palma bullet at 2850fps (G7BC .247 G1BC .464), the 168gr VLD at 2800fps (G7BC .242 G1BC .473), and the 185gr "long range" at 2700fps (G7BC .283 G1BC .553).

Of all those loads, the best 1000 yard performance is actually just about tied, between the Berger "fulbore' palma, and the Berger 185gr "long range". The Palma load has 6" less drop at 1000 yards, but less retained energy; and the "long range" load gives you about another 100 yards range before dropping subsonic.

I think the best load for comparison purposes here would be the 185gr "long range"; as we are comparing it against other long range (well over 1000 yard capable) cartridges.

.308 win, 185gr Berger "long range"
.283 G7-BC (G1BC .553) at 2700fps and a 300yd zero:

2992ftlbs muzzle energy
-301.35" at 1000 yards with 731ftlbs retained energy
-1084.09" at 1500yards, 398ftlbs retained energy
Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 825 yards
Drops subsonic at 1250 yards, with 528.77" of drop and 515 ftlbs of retained energy
The 210gr VLD performance suffers somewhat, because it can only be driven to about 2550fps from a 28" .308 without exceeding pressure limits. That is below the optimal velocity regime for a bullet of that weight range.
.308 win, 210gr Berger VLD
.323 G7-BC (.631 G1-BC) at 2550fps and a 300yd zero:

3029ftlbs muzzle energy
-314.96" at 1000 yards with 873ftlbs retained energy
-1081.77" at 1500yards, 478ftlbs retained energy
Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 900 yards
Drops subsonic at 1275 yards, with 652" of drop and 584 ftlbs of retained energy
Honestly... there isn't that much to distinguish the two loads in performance. The 185gr load has slightly lower drop, but because of the mass, and high ballistic efficiency, the 210gr is within a few inches at any useful range; while carrying more energy, and having a very slightly longer maximum range.

Oh and just for comparison, looking at the 210 compared to the most popular factory load out there... Well, look at the numbers:

"Federal Gold Medal Match"
168gr Sierra Match King at 2800fps from a 28" barrel

the 210gr Berger has:
100ftlbs more muzzle energy
32" less drop with 430ftlbs more retained energy at 1000 yards
275 yards more range at 1000ftlbs or higher
300 yards more supersonic range, with 220ftlbs more retained energy
In this case, because of its ballistic efficiency, there is no real question whether "light and fast" or "heavy and slow" is the winner. The 210gr Berger outperforms the 168gr SMK in all measures.

It must of course be noted, that to achieve this level of performance, a .308win rifle will need to be chambered specifically for the longer bullets (it will need a longer lede and throat), which will make it perform poorly with lighter bullets. Also, it is unlikely you will be able to feed these long and heavy rounds from a short action magazine.

However, if you want to mag feed, or don't have a long throat; both the 180gr "long range" load (which should mag load in most rifles) and the 155.5gr Palma load (which should mag load in ANY .308win) both exhibit nearly the same performance as the 210gr (in fact both have less drop at 1000 yards); and of course vastly superior performance to the 168gr SMK (as in 48" less drop at 1000 yards, with more retained energy).

It's also worth noting, Berger has another 210gr high performance bullet, the 210gr "long range boat tail". This bullet has a different profile, and is slightly shorter, but has a slightly worse BC (G7 .320 vs .323).

This bullet may be a better choice for some rifles, because its profile and slightly deeper seating depth, allow for more reliable feeding, and better performance (or for that matter, ANY safe performance without excessive pressures) from rifles without a long lede and throat.

Ok, baselines done, now it's on to the thumpenblitzenboomers

The .300 winchester magnum, is STILL the most popular choice of chambering for long range shooters in the 1000-1200 yard regime (though others, like the .300wsm are gaining on it rapidly). That is one of several reasons I chose .300wm for my 1000 yard rifle project, and also for the mountain gun I'm building (I've decided to standardize on .308 bullets, for my primary "large" rifles; so as to have fewer different bullets and accessories to buy).

It also means, I've done a ton of research, and there's a huge body of work on load development to draw from; and I'm certainly not going to let that go to waste.

So, using Walt Bergers personal load data (really great people the guys at Berger. Brian Litz and Walt helped me out personally), you can push one of their 210s to just under 2,900fps avg velocity (with an under 25fps standard deviation and under 50fps extreme spread) out of a standard .300wm, with better than 1/2moa accuracy, from a 24" barrel; or just under 3000fps from a 26" barrel.

Walt says you can push it over 3,000 from a 26" barrel, but SDs, extreme spread, and as a result the groups, open up a lot (as much as double actually; though when Walt is seeing .8moa  at 1000 yards off bags from a field gun, that's still nothing to sneeze at), and even worse from a 24" barrel (because of the increase in unburned powder, and turbulence) so he doesn't. He also said that going up to 28" only gets you another 50fps from the same loads, with no change in observed accuracy.

To be conservative, let's call it 3000fps from a 28" barrel, with best accuracy (so that we can be fair in comparing to the Lapuas and RUM).

As to maximum length, Walt and Brian both recommend 26" or 28". Going to 34" will get you up to 3200fps; but at that length, unless you use a 1.25" or thicker, cylinder profile barrel, the harmonics are awful, and groups are not worth mentioning. Experience shows that going over 34" produces no useful increase in velocity with any load or powder.

Typical barrel life for a .300wm rifle is somewhere north of 5000 rounds, depending on the load. The loads in question are all around 75gr of powder, and let's say they hit the bottom of the barrel life band. Most get better than that, but let's be stingy. To be fair, let's also round up to 75gr of powder (which is 100% powder capacity with the 210gr bullet).

The brass runs somewhere around $1 to $1.50 for best quality match cases (in bulk), and you have an expected MATCH case life of 5 loads, with a practice life of at least 5 more loads.

So that's $1.50 per case (presuming lapua brass in bulk), $0.45 for the primer and bullet, 75gr of powder (93 loads per pound less wastage) at $22 a pound (lets presume Retumbo, as the best performance per dollar powder, for a 28" barrel... it's a SLOOOOW powder; but Walt Berger says he uses it personally for his best .300wm loads) for $0.24 of powder, and 5000 rounds per $600 barrel (including chambering and mounting); to push 210gr at 3000fps from a 28" barrel.

The .300 lapua is another beast entirely.

That same 210gr bullet from a .300 lapua/.300-338 WILL hit 3200, but it needs a 28" barrel to do it (you go down to about 3100 from a 26" barrel). It also requires a longer, and less rigid action than even the .300wm (never mind the short mags), to reliably mag feed. Oh and then there's that non standard bolt face.

The recoil and muzzle blast are absolutely staggering. I personally think it's worse to shoot than a .50 cal. According to several sources, it takes a 38" barrel to fully burn that powder charge to the point where the muzzle blast isn't insane.

Worse though, is the general cost of shooting it. Virgin cases run $2+ a piece, and then still have to be necked down and fireformed. Each shot is 110gr of powder. The expected case life is just TWO loads for match, and MAYBE another 3 for practice.

The killer is though, the chambering has a typical barrel life of 500 to 1000 rounds.

So that's $2 a case, $0.45 for bullet and primer, 110gr of powder for 63 rounds per pound less wastage at $0.35 a round, and 1000 rounds per $600 barrel; for 210gr at 3200fps.

The .300rum splits the difference between the two.

It will push the same 210gr bullet to 3100fps from a 28" barrel (actually, people load it hotter than that, but that's the published data). Match grade brass runs $1.20-$1.50 (though it's not as good as the match grade .300wm or .338. Give it a couple years and the brassmakers will catch up). The 3100fps load with a 210gr bullet is 100gr of powder.

The expected case life on the RUM is also 5 match rounds, and 10 practice.

The real kicker compared to the Lapua though, is the barrel life. Where the Lapua maxes out at 1000 rounds, RUM shooters are reporting 2000 rounds plus.

I should note, there are guys pushing 110gr compressed loads with the 210gr bullets claiming 3250fps from 28" barrels; but that's going to WELL exceed the maximum pressure limit, and those loads will probably eat barrels just as bad as the Lapua does.

So $1.20 a case, $0.45 bullet and primer, 100gr of powder for 70 rounds per pound less wastage or $0.32 a round, and 2000 rounds per $600 barrel; to push 210gr to 3100fps.

Let us assume a match life for a particular rifle of 10,000 rounds; presuming 2000 rounds a year for five years.

Given this lifetime, let's look at the cost of shooting all three:
  • .300wm: 2000 cases, $3,000. 10,000 bullets and primers, $4,500. 108 pounds of powder, $2,376. 2 barrels, $1,200.
  • Total .300wm = $11,076
  • .300 lapua: 5000 cases, $10,000. 10,000 bullets and primers, $4,500. 159 pounds of powder, $3,498. 10 barrels, $6,000.
  • Total .300 lapua = $23,998
  • .300RUM: 2000 cases, $3,000. 10,000 bullets and primers, $4,500. 143 pounds of powder, $3,146. 5 barrels, $3,000.
  • Total .300rum = $13,646
So, even with a best case estimate on .300 lapua, and worst cases on .300wm and .300rum, it would cost about as much as shooting 10,000 rounds of .300wm AND 10,000 rounds of .300 RUM COMBINED; to shoot 10,000 rounds of .300 lapua.

Of course, if the ballistic performance justifies it, I suppose it could be worth it...

Let's check those numbers too:
  • .300wm, 210gr Berger with .323 G7-BC (.631 G1-BC) at 3000fps and a 300yd zero:
  • 4193ftlbs muzzle energy. 
  • -216.75" at 1000 yards with 1348ftlbs retained energy. 
  • -724" at 1500yards, 655ftlbs retained energy. 
  • Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 1225 yards. 
  • Drops subsonic at 1575 yards, with 840" of drop and 584 ftlbs of retained energy.

  • .300 lapua, 210gr Berger with .323 G7-BC (.631 G1-BC) at 3200fps and a 300 yard zero:
  • 4771ftlbs muzzle energy. 
  • -186.74" at 1000 yards with 1596ftlbs retained energy. 
  • -617" at 1500yards, 802ftlbs retained energy. 
  • Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 1350 yards. 
  • Drops subsonic at 1700 yards, with 914.66" of drop and 584ftlbs of retained energy.
     
  • .300rum, 210gr Berger with .323 G7-BC (.631 G1-BC) at 3100fps and a 300 yard zero:
  • 4477ftlbs muzzle energy. 
  • -200.97" at 1000 yards with 1469ftlbs retained energy. 
  • -667.45" at 1500yards, 726ftlbs retained energy. 
  • Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 1275 yards. 
  • Drops subsonic at 1625 yards, with 860" of drop and 584ftlbs of retained energy.
So, in comparison to .300wm, you get 300more ftlbs muzzle energy, 100 more ftlbs at 1000 yards, and 75 yards more effective range from a .300rum; and 600more ftlbs muzzle energy, 200 more ftlbs at 1000 yards, and 150 yards more effective range from a .300 Lapua...

That's pretty cool actually. .300rum almost exactly splits the difference between .300lapua and .300 winmag, for only about 20% more cost.

Given the cost of shooting the Lapua though... It just doesn't make sense.

Honestly though, given the "walmart test", I can't even see justifying the additional cost of the .300rum; excepting that it's not a belted magnum case, and so it's less of a pain to reload.

If you're going to do it, you might as well go all the way...

Which brings us to the REALLY big boys

We've been comparing, relatively standard sized chamberings; and as I said, they don't really seem to make sense in comparison to the .300wm, for the 1000 yard and under shooting mission.

That said, we were deliberately choosing all loads using the same .308 caliber 210gr bullet; and you would expect that to reduce variation somewhat.

What about going for one of the chamberings created for over 1200 yard shooting; and for anti-materiel purposes?

For example, the current popularity king of the super long range chmaberings, is the .338 lapua. It's a purpose built sniping cartridge, designed to perform out past 1200 yards, with sufficient retained energy at 1500 yards to do whatever you might ask of it.

With the .300gr scenars, the .338 will see 2800fps from that same 28" barrel. That's a lot of energy moving down range.
  • .338 lapua, 300gr Lapua Scenar with .382 G7-BC (.747 G1-BC) at 2800fps and a 300 yard zero:
  • 5218ftlbs muzzle energy (holy!!!!). 
  • -232.38" at 1000 yards with 1973ftlbs retained energy. 
  • -740" at 1500yards, 1085ftlbs retained energy. 
  • Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 1575 yards. 
  • Drops subsonic at 1725 yards, with 1127.88" of drop and 812ftlbs of retained energy.
Compared to our baseline .308, that's  112" less drop at 1000 yards with 1100ftlbs more energy, 340" less drop at 1500 yards with 607 ftlbs more energy, it's got a 675 yard range advantage at 1000ftlbs, and a 450 yard subsonic range advantage... however, this is where things get interesting... it has almost 500" more drop at its subsonic range, and only sports a 300ftlb energy differential for it.

Basically, it's an entirely different class of chambering. Whereas .308 is best out to 800 and is stretching out to 1000, with an absolute max range of about 1200 yards; .338 is really comfortable all the way out to 1500+ yards... though it's performance drops off rapidly past the 1650 yard mark.

When compared against the .300wm, it's a lot closer at 1000 yards than the .308.

The .338 actually has 16" more drop at 1000 yards with 625ftlbs more energy, 16" more drop at 1500 yards with 430 ftlbs more energy, it's got a 350 yard range advantage at 1000ftlbs, and a 150 yard subsonic range advantage, with 288" more drop at its subsonic range, and only sports a 228ftlb energy differential for it.

The numbers show that in fact, the .300wm is somewhat more precise at the same ranges than the .338; though again, the .338 has an energy advantage at all ranges, and has an overall advantage in extreme range.

Also, what the numbers don't reflect is how that big heavy (comparatively speaking) .338 bullet, deals with adverse conditions past 1200 yards... Where really, the .338s realworld advantages outweigh the relatively small numeric advantage. It's just going to kill the badguy better at those ranges. Enough better that it's rapidly becoming the standard for over 1000 yard sniping, across the globe.

The bigger difference though, isn't the extreme range performance... It's the EXTREME COST of shooting the damn thing; plus the EXTREME pain, fatigue, and wear and tear caused by shooting it.

The .338 is just plain big, and still relatively rare. Thus, it's expensive to shoot, and it requires expensive guns to shoot it, and expensive gear to load for it.

Factory match grade loads for the .338 start at around $4 a round, and run to around $9. Virgin cases run $2.50, and bullets run $0.85 each. You're lucky to get 2, maybe 3 reloads for a single case; and it uses a rather large volume of powder, resulting in a barrel life of just 1000 rounds.

So that's $2.50 a case, $0.90 for bullet and primer, 110gr of powder for 63 rounds per pound less wastage at $0.35 a round, and 1000 rounds per $600 barrel.

So for that same 10,000 round match life we get:
  • .338 lapua: 5000 cases, $12,500. 10,000 bullets and primers, $9,000. 159 pounds of powder, $3,498. 10 barrels, $6,000.
  • Total .338 lapua = $30,998
  • Cost per shot = $3.10
Damn... $3.10 a shot, even using handloads....

And of course, then there's shooting it.

It's loud (louder than a .50bmg) with a truly punishing and fatiguing muzzle blast;  and it also has punishing recoil (not as much energy as a .50, but a faster impulse, making the pain sharper).

Seriously, the muzzle blast and report are something you have to experience to believe. Plugs and muffs, and it's still painful; especially with a muzzle brake. It just beats you down sonically, until after 210 rounds, you just want to stop shooting.

The recoil is the same. I have no problem shooting a 24lb bolt action .50bmg for as long as my wallet will hold out. With the .338 lapua...

I can (and have) shoot a .300wm all day long;  shooting a couple hundred rounds over the course of say, six or eight hours. 20 rounds of .338 lapua and I won't be able to shoot for a week. 10 rounds is about my limit with a good muzzlebreak, and a thick recoil pad, in a 13+lb gun. Any lighter, without a brake, or with anything less than a limb saver or decelerator... 5 rounds tops.

So... if my mission including shooting at 1200 to 1500 yards, and primarily more than 100 yards... yeah, I'd swallow the pain and the cost and go with a .338; but otherwise no thanks.

Alright... what about dedicated "anti-materiel" chamberings?

 Every publicly acknowledged, confirmed,  sniper kill at ranges beyond 1250 yards, has been with either a .338 lapua (2707 yards) , or a .50bmg (2657 yards).  The longest kill from anything smaller, was 1250 yards (SSgt Jim Gilliland, with an M24 firing 7.62nato)

Oficially, we don't shoot .50bmg sniper rifles at people... they're 'anti-materiel" rifles; used for taking out light vehicles, shooting the doors of bunkers, destroying gas tanks and fuel pumps etc....

... but they're right nifty for killing bad guys from WAAAAAY far away.


So, obviously, the .50 offers some serious long range shooting capabilities. Why not choose a .50?

 Well, the ballistics ARE great (G1 model estimate. see my note on G1 vs G7 ballistic estimates below):
  • .50BMG, 750gr Hornady A-Max with .518 G7-BC (1.050 G1-BC) at 2820fps and a 300 yard zero:
  • 13,232ftlbs muzzle energy (Holy!!!! Holy!!!! Holy!!!). 
  • -201.77" at 1000 yards with 6699ftlbs retained energy. 
  • -598" at 1500yards,  4581ftlbs retained energy. 
  • Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 3700 yards. 
  • Drops subsonic at 3000 yards, with 4352" of drop and 1714ftlbs of retained energy.
 And actually, the ammunition costs are pretty comparable to the .338 lapua; with factory match grade loads running between $6 and $9 in bulk; but the .50 eats barrels much less aggressively, with barrel life running somewhere around 2000 rounds... though Barrels are likely to cost $1000 or so.

Case life is also good, if you've got a tight match grade chamber, and you anneal your brass; with match grade, virgin commercial brass  going 3-5 reloads, and  another couple times in practice (I know more than a couple guys who reload the same .50 cases 10 times, 5 match, and 5 practice; but they inspect each case carefully with each reload). 

Components are not cheap, but  aren't as much as one might think; with match grade bullets running about $1.50  to $2 each in bulk, primed cases are also running about $1.50 to $2 a piece in bulk, and with powder loads of 235gr of h50bmg at $22 a pound, that's 28 rounds per pound, for a cost of about $0.79 powder per.

So for that same 10,000 round match life we get:

  • .50 BMG: 2000 cases, $4000. 10,000 bullets and primers, $20,000. 357 pounds of powder, $7854. 5 barrels, $5000.
  • Total .50bmg = $36,854
  • Cost per shot = $3.69
So, $3.69 a shot, including the barrel life... Not much more than the .338, and the ballistics...

Frankly, I don't see why someone interested in tactical 1200 yard plus shooting, would bother with the .338; unless they don't like the weight of the .50. It ends up costing the same to shoot, and .50 bmg rifles, while expensive, aren't THAT much more than .338 rifles.Plus the .50 is just more fun to shoot.

If you want a real tackdriver, ok, don't get the .50; but for the extreme range and extreme energy, it walks all over the .338.

That said, there's no point to the things for under 1200 yards; where the .300 class magnums will give you more precision, for far less money, and far less fatigue.

The "Specialist"

Finally, I want to talk about a highly specialized competitor to the .50bmg; the .408 Chey-Tac.

Now, I've spoken about the .408 unfavorably before. It's not that I dislike the chambering... It's actually one of the most accurate, and most ballisitically efficient chamberings ever developed; I just have my doubts about the company pushing it.

The .408 tries to outdo both the .338 and the .50 in all ways; while simultaneously being softer shooting than either, easier to shoot accurately, and in theory, lower cost.

At least on the accuracy front, it seems to achieve those goals. 

The Ballistics of the .408 Chey-Tac are even better than those of the .50bmg at truly extreme ranges, because the bullets are so extremely ballistically efficient. As far as I know, the .408 419gr copper solid has the highest ballistic coefficient of any available bullet in any chambering; with a G1BC of 1.12. No, they don't mass nearly as much as the .50bmg, so retained energy at any given range is less; but the drop differences are substantial:
  • .408 Chey-Tac, 419gr copper solid with .552 G7-BC (1.12 G1-BC) at 2890fps and a 300 yard zero:
  • 7764ftlbs muzzle energy. 
  • -187.57" at 1000 yards with 4143ftlbs retained energy. 
  • -549" at 1500yards, 2921ftlbs retained energy. 
  • Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 3100 yards. 
  • Drops subsonic at 3100 yards, with 3852" of drop and 1000ftlbs of retained energy.
Thats actually pretty damned impressive, with a 100 yard range advantage to subsonic over the .50bmg; with just 400 less ftlbs of energy to show for it (again, this is a G1 model estimate. See my note on G1 vs G7 ballistic estimates below)... Given that the projectile is not much more than half the mass of the .50, that's saying something.

The .408 is just plain more accurate and precise at any range, than the .50 is, all the way out to subsonic; and it delivers sufficient energy at any range, to be indistinguishable in effect on soft tissue (both are going to tear it up real dam good). Yes, the .50 is going to be a more effective anti-materiel tool; but the .408 is the better snipers weapon.

What about cost though?

Factory ammo costs (if you can find it. There are only three or four small manufacturers loading for it) are pretty comparable to the .50; with factory match grade loads running between $6 and $9 in bulk.

Component cost is certainly high, with cases running about $3.50 each, bullets running around $2, and with 135gr powder charges, for 50 rounds per pound  $22 a pound, a powder cost of $0.44 per round.

The barrel life is probably about 2000 rounds (I haven't heard of anyone shooting their .408 through a barrel yet. It's a relatively new chambering, and not particularly popular) and as with the .50 barrels are likely to cost $1000 or so.

Case life is also good, if you've got a tight match grade chamber, and you anneal your brass; with match brass going 3-5 reloads. 

So for that same 10,000 round match life we get:
  • .408 cheytac: 2000 cases, $7,000. 10,000 bullets and primers, $20,000. 200 pounds of powder, $4400 5 barrels, $5000.
  • Total .338 lapua = $36,400
  • Cost per shot = $3.64
So, at $3.64 a shot including barrel life, you're getting considerably better accuracy and precision over the .50,  or the .338 (including a range advantage) for not much difference in cost. It's easier to shoot than either, and the rifles are about the same price.

I would say that if you plan on shooting "soft targets", or tactical competitons, at 1200-2200 yards; a rifle in .408 cheytac is the best way to do it, of the three.

But again, given the dramatically higher cost per shot, the higher cost for the rifles, the increased shooter fatigue, the doubled weight; if you're shooting 1200 yards or under, there really is no reason to go with anything bigger than one of the .300 class magnums.

If you're shooting at 1200 yards or less, my recommendation for .300 Winchester Magnum stands firm. It is the best all around choice for tactical shooting in the under 1200 yard mission space.

A note about numbers

For everyone looking at those extreme 3000 yard range numbers for .408 and .50bmg,  and thinking "that's just not possible" you're right, it isn't.

These are numbers out of the JBM ballistic calculator (widely considered the best in the business), using the industry standard G! ballistic coefficients and drag models. These are not actual downrange numbers; and as such, at the extreme ranges they're more in the nature of "theory" than reality.

In the real world, ballistic coefficient changes with the velocity of the bullet, and air is never perfect and standard; so the ACTUAL range you're going to see to subsonic, is generally considerably less for these 1500 yard plus cartridges, than the theoretical numbers would suggest.

Anything past about 1500 yards, and a conventional ballistic calculator is going to diverge substantially from reality; especially using the G1 ballistics model. The G7 model  is substantially more accurate out to about 2000 yards. Anything beyond that... well...

I was able to run the numbers for the .300 magnums, and the .338 using the more accurate G7 native drag model; as Brian Litz publishes data for all those bullets.

Unfortunately, there are no official published empirically tested G7 numbers for the .408 or the 750gr a-max; only estimates based on modeling and conversion factors.

That said, the G7 estimate is still likely to be more accurate at range than the G1 modeling. I'll re-run the G7 numbers for both here, so you can compare.

.408 CheyTac modeled with G7 estimates:
  • .408 Chey-Tac, 419gr copper solid with .552 G7-BC (1.12 G1-BC) at 2890fps and a 300 yard zero:
  • 7764ftlbs muzzle energy. 
  • -188.54" at 1000 yards with 4092ftlbs retained energy. 
  • -553.4" at 1500yards, 2855ftlbs retained energy. 
  • Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 2800 yards. 
  • Drops subsonic at 2550 yards, with 2429" of drop and 1180ftlbs of retained energy.
.50bmg modeled with the G7 estimates:
  • .50BMG, 750gr Hornady A-Max with .518 G7-BC (1.050 G1-BC) at 2820fps and a 300 yard zero:
  • 13,232ftlbs muzzle energy (Holy!!!! Holy!!!! Holy!!!). 
  • -202.95" at 1000 yards with 6611ftlbs retained energy. 
  • -603" at 1500yards,  4450ftlbs retained energy. 
  • Drops below 1000ftlbs of retained energy at 3400 yards. 
  • Drops subsonic at 2300 yards, with 2006" of drop and 2143ftlbs of retained energy.
You can see, looking at the numbers in the sections above, and the numbers here; that at 1000 and 1500 yards, the difference between the two drag models, isn't all that great, but at 2000 yards plus, it's huge.

Even the G7 estimate isn't perfect of course. Real world numbers are still generally a fair bit less than the models ideal would predict.

In the real world, the .338 lapua has a best range to subsonic of right at 1900-2000 yards, under ideal conditions (using the JDM J40 profile bullet, not the Lapua Scenar as I refer to above. That bullet is not generally commercially available, so I didn't use it).

The .50bmg has a best range to subsonic of about 2100-2200 yards under ideal conditions, using the a-max launched at 2800fps from a 34" barrel.

The .408 has a best range to subsonic of about 2200-2300 yards, using the 419gr bullet at 2890fps from a 29" barrel.

Those are using the best possible bullets, at the highest possible velocities, from the longest barrels etc...